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AN Fittings – The Complete Guide

From what "AN" actually stands for, to the exact torque spec for your -AN8 union – everything you need to build leak-free plumbing on your car or truck.

What is AN?

AN stands for Army-Navy. The standard was developed jointly by the United States Army and Navy during World War II to create a unified, interchangeable system for hydraulic and fuel line fittings across military aircraft and ground vehicles. The goal was simple: any fitting from any manufacturer would connect perfectly to any hose or port using the same standard.

The standard is formally defined as MIL-DTL-5070 and related military/aerospace specifications. After the war, it was adopted by motorsport, hot rodding, and eventually the wider performance automotive world. Today you'll find AN fittings on everything from Formula 1 cars to weekend track cars to underground fuel tanks on a diesel race truck.

The defining characteristic of AN fittings is the 37° flare seal – a precisely-machined conical surface on both the male and female halves that form a metal-to-metal seal when tightened. This completely eliminates the need for O-rings, gaskets, or thread sealant in the joint itself, making connections extremely reliable, leak-resistant, and re-usable hundreds of times.

AN fittings (37° flare) are different from JIC fittings (also 37° flare but a different thread pitch in some sizes) and SAE 45° flare fittings, which are not interchangeable. Always verify the flare angle when adapting between systems.

The Dash Size System

AN fittings are identified by a "dash" number (written with a minus sign: -3, -4, -6, -8, -10, -12, -16, -20, -24). The dash number corresponds to the hose/tube outside diameter in 16ths of an inch.

-8

Dash number

?

8/16" = 1/2"

Tube O.D. (imperial)

Simple rule: dash number ÷ 16 = tube outside diameter in inches

The most commonly used sizes in automotive performance applications are:

  • -4Small fuel feed & return, sensor lines, oil pressure
  • -6Main fuel feed (up to ~400 hp), oil cooler, power steering
  • -8Fuel feed (400–800 hp), oil catch-can, coolant bypass
  • -10Fuel (800 hp+), oil drain & return, large coolant lines
  • -12Fuel cell vent, large oil drains, remote reservoirs
  • -16Dry sump tanks, very large return lines, bulk storage

When in doubt about which size to use, size up rather than down. A -8 line that is "too big" will flow freely; a -6 line that is "too small" will starve your fuel pump or restrict oil flow under high load.

The 37° Flare – How AN Seals

Every AN male fitting has a 37° conical nose precision-machined to exact tolerances. The female AN swivel nut contains a matching 37° concave seat. When the nut is tightened, the male nose presses into the female seat and the two metal surfaces make intimate contact across the full circumference – forming a seal without any soft material (gasket, o-ring, or tape) in the joint.

This is why AN fittings can be assembled, disassembled, and re-assembled hundreds of times without leaking – as long as both flare surfaces remain undamaged.

37° AN Flare

Used on all true AN fittings. Metal-to-metal seal. No sealant needed.

45° SAE Flare

Common on residential plumbing and some OEM lines. NOT interchangeable with AN.

NPT Taper Thread

Seals on thread interference. Requires sealant. Used on ports/blocks – adapted to AN via fittings.

Materials & Finish

AN fittings are available in several materials. Choosing the wrong one for an application is one of the most common (and potentially dangerous) mistakes builders make.

6061 Aluminium (Anodised)

Weight

????? Lightest

Corrosion Resistance

????? Good

Cost

$ Budget-friendly

Max Temp

150°C

Use for

Oil, fuel, coolant, air – general performance builds. Avoid strong acids/alkalis.

Avoid on

Brake fluid (DOT 3/4/5.1), power steering fluid (degrades anodising over time)

Stainless Steel (316L)

Weight

????? Heavier

Corrosion Resistance

????? Excellent

Cost

$$$ Premium

Max Temp

315°C

Use for

Brake lines, turbo oil returns, exhaust manifold sensors, marine/salt environments

Avoid on

Nothing – stainless is compatible with virtually all fluids

Titanium

Weight

????? Very light

Corrosion Resistance

????? Excellent

Cost

$$$$$ Race-grade

Max Temp

300°C

Use for

Weight-critical race applications only. Minimal strength advantage over aluminium at higher costs.

Avoid on

Overkill for street use

Carbon Steel (Black)

Weight

????? Medium

Corrosion Resistance

????? Poor – rusts

Cost

$ Cheapest

Max Temp

200°C

Use for

Dry air, hydraulic oil only. Not for fuel or coolant systems on performance builds.

Avoid on

Any wet fluid system – rust contamination risk

AN Fitting Types

The AN system covers a wide family of fitting shapes. These are the most commonly used in automotive builds:

Male Union (Bulkhead Coupler)

AN-815

Connects two female AN hose ends inline. Usually hex-body so you can hold it while tightening both ends.

Female-Female Swivel Union

AN-818

Two female AN openings. Used when both lines terminate in male fittings.

Tee Fitting (Three-Way)

AN-819

Splits or merges flow at one point. Common on fuel rails and manifolds.

Straight Hose End

0° end

Connects directly onto the hose at 0° departure. Use where you have a straight run with room.

45° Hose End

45° end

A 45° departure from the hose axis. Great for crowded engine bays.

90° Hose End

90° end

Sharp 90° turn at the end. Use for ports where a straight hose would conflict with adjacent components.

Adjustable Swivel Hose End

Banjo/Swivel

Can be rotated to any angle and locked with a jam nut. Extremely useful for alignment-critical ports.

NPT-to-AN Adapter

NPT-AN

Bridges an NPT-threaded port (engine block, filter head, manifold) to the AN system. Uses thread sealant on the NPT side only.

Bulkhead Fitting

Bulkhead

Passes a line through a firewall or panel. Uses a lock nut on the non-sealing side to clamp against the panel.

O-Ring Boss (ORB) Adapter

ORB

Threads into an ORB port (most modern aluminium blocks/heads) and converts to AN. Seals on the face O-ring, not the thread.

Hose Compatibility

Not all hose is compatible with all fluid types. Match the hose to the service it will see:

Hose TypeInner LinerMax PressureFluid CompatibilityBest Use
Stainless Braided (PTFE liner)PTFE/Teflon2,500 psi (-6)All fluids including brake fluid, methanol, exotic fuelsBrakes, fuel, turbo oil, hydraulics
Stainless Braided (rubber liner)Nitrile / EPDM1,000 psiFuel, oil, coolant, air. NOT brake fluid.General purpose oil, fuel, coolant
Nylon Braided (lightweight)Nitrile / CPE350–500 psiFuel, oil, coolant, air. NOT brake fluid.Non-critical lines where weight matters
Push-On (no crimp/screw)Nitrile/CPE250 psiFuel, oil, coolant, air – low pressure onlyReturn lines, vents, catch-can connections

Brake lines are safety-critical. Always use PTFE-lined stainless braided hose with stainless steel AN end fittings for brake applications. Aluminium fittings degrade with glycol-based brake fluids and must not be used.

NPT to AN Adapters

Most engine blocks, oil pans, fuel rails, and filter housings use NPT (National Pipe Thread) ports – a tapered thread that seals through thread interference (not a flare). To connect your AN plumbing to these ports, you need an NPT-to-AN straight adapter.

The NPT side uses PTFE tape or anaerobic thread sealant (e.g. Loctite 567). The AN male side then interfaces with your hose end in the normal metal-to-metal 37° flare manner – no sealant.

NPT SizeEquivalent ANTypical Applications
1/16" NPT-3Sensor ports, gauge fittings
1/8" NPT-4Common sensor/sender port size
1/4" NPT-6Fuel pressure regulator, block ports
3/8" NPT-8Fuel pump inlets, oil cooler ports
1/2" NPT-10Return lines, larger block ports
3/4" NPT-12Remote oil filter, dry sump tanks
1" NPT-16Large reservoir ports, bulk fittings

NPT is a tapered thread – install it with 2–3 wraps of PTFE tape on the male thread, or one drop of anaerobic thread sealant. Thread in by hand, then 1–2 turns with a wrench. Do not over-tighten NPT fittings into aluminium ports – you will crack the housing.

Step-by-Step Installation

Follow these steps in order for a clean, leak-free build every time.

1

Cut the hose cleanly

Use a proper hose cutting tool or fine-tooth hacksaw with a sharp blade. The cut must be perfectly square – never use scissors or a knife, which compress the liner. For spiral-wound PTFE hose, use a rotary cutter to prevent fraying. Deburr aluminium hose ends after cutting to prevent liner damage.

2

Inspect the flare seat on both fittings

Examine the 37° flare seat inside the female AN swivel nut and on the male fitting body. Any nicks, burrs, or corrosion will cause a leak regardless of torque. Light scratches can be polished out with fine grit (1000+). Deep gouges mean replace the fitting.

3

Assemble the hose end onto the hose (reusable fittings)

For reusable screw-type ends: lightly lubricate the socket threads with clean assembly oil or the fluid the line will carry. Thread the socket counterclockwise (left-hand thread) onto the hose braid – count the turns, typically 3–4 for -AN4 and up. Insert the nipple into the hose and thread into the socket clockwise by hand until snug, then use two wrenches – hold the socket, turn the nipple – until correct depth is reached (nipple hex should be flush with or 1–2mm proud of the socket hex).

4

Route and measure before final assembly

Dry-fit the entire line before making anything permanent. Ensure adequate radius on bends (minimum 5× the hose I.D. for stainless braided, 3× for push-on). Keep lines away from heat sources (exhaust, headers) or protect with heat sleeve. Avoid contact with sharp chassis edges – use grommets or split plastic conduit.

5

Connect and torque the AN union

Thread the male AN fitting into the female port by hand first – if it resists, stop and check for cross-threading. Never force. Once hand-tight, use two AN wrenches (not adjustable spanners): hold the body fitting, turn the swivel nut. Tighten to "finger-tight + 1/6 turn" as a starting point, then verify against the torque table. Do NOT over-torque – you will deform the 37° flare and still get a leak.

6

Pressure test before running the engine

For fuel and oil lines: pressurize the system to operating pressure with a hand pump or by briefly running the engine at idle. Inspect every joint with a cloth or UV dye. For brake lines: bench-bleed with fluid, apply and hold pedal pressure for 30 seconds and check for any weeping at the unions. Fix any leaks before driving.

Torque & Size Reference

Use this table for all AN fitting dimensions and torque specs. Values are given for aluminium fittings; stainless steel can be torqued approximately 10–15% higher due to the harder sealing surface.

DashTube O.D.ThreadBoreWrench (AN)Wrench (Hose)Torque
-33/8"3/8"-24 UNF4.8mm1/2"7/16"8–9 Nm
-47/16"7/16"-20 UNF6.3mm9/16"23/32"11–13 Nm
-51/2"1/2"-20 UNF7.9mm14–15 Nm
-69/16"9/16"-18 UNF9.5mm11/16"7/8"15–17 Nm
-83/4"3/4"-16 UNF12.7mm7/8"1-1/32"28–31 Nm
-107/8"7/8"-14 UNF15.9mm1-1/32"1-7/32"34–37 Nm
-121-1/16"1-1/16"-12 UNF19mm1-1/4"1-7/16"44–47 Nm
-161-5/16"1-5/16"-12 UNF25.4mm1-1/2"1-3/4"68–73 Nm
-201-5/8"1-5/8"-12 UNF31.8mm2-5/16"83–88 Nm
-241-7/8"1-7/8"-12 UNF38.1mm95–100 Nm

Bookmark this page – or print the torque table and keep a laminated copy in your tool chest. Getting the torque right is the single biggest factor in leak-free AN systems.

Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

Using PTFE tape on AN threads

Why it's a problem

AN fittings seal on the 37° metal flare, not the threads. PTFE tape compresses the flare geometry and causes leaks. Never use thread sealant on AN male/female unions.

The fix

No sealant needed. Clean, correct torque, and undamaged flare seats are all that is required.

Mixing aluminium and stainless in fuel systems

Why it's a problem

Not a problem in itself, but different torque specs and thermal expansion rates mean connections may loosen over time in high heat-cycle environments like turbo oil drains.

The fix

Match materials within each sub-system where possible. If mixing, re-check torque after the first 5 heat cycles.

Over-torquing with adjustable spanners

Why it's a problem

Adjustable spanners bite into hex flats at points, not evenly. This rounds off the softer aluminium hex and makes subsequent removal very difficult or impossible.

The fix

Use proper AN crowfoot or open-end wrenches (1/16" increments). Invest in a decent AN wrench set – it pays for itself on the first job.

Bending stainless braided hose too tightly

Why it's a problem

Bending below minimum radius kinks the inliner, restricts flow, and creates stress fractures in the braid over time.

The fix

Reposition end fittings (use a swivel or different angle end) so the hose takes a gentle arc rather than a tight bend.

Not supporting long hose runs

Why it's a problem

Unsupported braided hose vibrates against chassis members and wears through quickly, especially on track cars.

The fix

Clamp at regular intervals (every 30–40cm), use protective sleeving where contact is unavoidable.

Using aluminium fittings on braided brake lines

Why it's a problem

DOT 3/4/5.1 brake fluids are glycol-based and aggressively corrode anodised aluminium over time, leading to fitting failure – potentially while braking.

The fix

Always use stainless steel fittings and PTFE-lined hose for brake systems. No exceptions.

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